HIDDEN GEMS

Because Prague is such a beautiful city, itʼs easy to miss its hidden delights. Behind the glittering facade, there are secret gardens, architectural treasures and divine revelations waiting to be discovered. Or just good old-fashioned shopping bargains. Try our select list of overlooked sites and excursions for a distinctly different Prague experience.

Smart Sightseeing
There is no better time to experience Prague than in the early morning, before the city awakes. For a pleasant walk to the Castle that will take you past the major tourist sites, start in front of the Maximilian Hotel, on Haštalské náměstí. Follow Haštalská Street west, which flows into Kozí, Dlouhá and Old Town Square. Cross the square diagonally, past the Astronomical Clock and through Malé náměstí to Karlova Street, which winds through Old Town to Charles Bridge.  Across the bridge, stay straight on Mostecká Street, which leads to Malostranké náměstí. Turn right and then left on Nerudova, where a four-block walk uphill will bring you to a large set of stairs. Make a hairpin turn to ascend the stairs on the right, which lead to the gates of Prague Castle. Or get a real jump on the day by joining the scenic 30-minute run that starts in front of the Maximilian every Tuesday and Friday at 7:15.

Shopperʼs Delight
A charming place to do your souvenir shopping is Havelská Tržiště, an open-air market on Havelská between Uhelný trh and Melantrichova Street in Old Town. More than 50 booths offer the usual assortment of jewelry, magnets, puppets, mugs and glasses, scarves and handbags, candy and Karlovy Vary wafers, along with distinctive items like paintings, drawings and musical instruments. On weekdays, a number of the stands also offer fresh produce. Go early, as the afternoons get crowded.

Market Value
If you are a born bargain-hunter, then set some time aside to visit Pražská Tržnice, located on the river in Prague 7-Holešovice. Like the cityʼs other sprawling Asian markets, it has hundreds of outdoor stands selling an astounding variety of clothing, jewelry, cosmetics, shoes, housewares, tools and small electronics. It takes a keen eye to pick out the treasures amid the trash, but you will find vendors willing to bargain, and good Asian eateries. Take the Metro C line (red) to Vltavská, then tram 1, 3, 5 or 25 one stop to Pražská Tržnice.  

 

Artful Galleries
Art galleries abound in Prague, but two stand out for offering spaces as interesting as their high-quality contemporary art. DOX, a refurbished metal factory in Holešovice, is so big that you can get lost wandering its enormous hallways and exhibition rooms. Galerie Rudolfinum, like the neighboring concert hall, embodies 19th-century neo-classical elegance. DOX: Metro C line (red) to Vltavská, tram 5 to Ortenovo náměstí, walk one block south to Poupětova. Rudolfinum: Metro A (green) line to Staroměstská.

Riding High
Donʼt miss the opportunity to take a ride on a paternoster, an early form of passenger elevator still found in central Prague. A continuous chain of open compartments runs nonstop along a vertical conveyor belt, requiring riders to literally jump in and out. Itʼs high-flying, low-tech fun. You will find working examples at the YMCA (Na Poříčí 12, on the left past the reception desk) and in the Magistrát Hlavního Města Prahy offices (Jungmannova 29, to the right of the stairwell in the main lobby).

Urban Oasis
The secluded Franciscan Garden adjacent to Our Lady of the Snows Church offers a calm respite from the bustle of city center. In the summer, the rose trellises and perennial and herb gardens are awash in bright colors; in the winter, the benches and sculptures are perfect for a meditative retreat. Access the garden from the Kino Světozor entrance on Vodičkova near Wenceslas Square (past the Tesla window, look for the embossed metal doors), or Jungmannovo náměstí (look for the wooden doors in the southeast corner).

High-Class Finance
Prague wears its architectural jewels proudly, but many remain hidden. Case in point: The UniCredit Bank building at Na Přikopě 20, a Neo-Renaissance masterpiece with a museum-quality Art Nouveau interior. Take the marble stairs guarded by two bronze knights up to the skylit central hall, which is filled with stately columns, gilded arches and rich decorative elements. Up another two flights, expansive murals honor Bohemian workers. A detailed brochure is available at the ground-floor information desk.

Celebrity Cemetery
Vyšehrad, a green redoubt atop a cliff overlooking the Vltava River, is the legendary founding place of the Czech nation. Next to the towering double spires of Sts. Peter and Paul basilica,  cultural heroes like composer Antonín Dvořák and writer Karel Čapek are interred in a cemetery filled with dazzling sculptures and tile mosaics. Itʼs an aesthetic and spiritual delight. Take the Metro C (red) line to the Vyšehrad stop, and follow the lower asphalt walk to Na Bučance, which leads to the park entrance.

Gracious Greenery
Itʼs easy to miss Wallenstein Garden (Valdštejnská zahrada) in Malá Strana, as itʼs completely enclosed by a large wall and open only April 1 – Oct. 31. But you will be missing something special if you donʼt stroll through its formal geometry, pond and fountains and sleek mythical statuary. The enormous sala terrena hosts concerts during the summer, and the adjoining aviary and creepy dripstone wall are sure to invoke a shudder. Take the Metro A (green) line or tram 22 or 18 to Malostranská, and enter around the corner on Letenská.

Harrowing History
Arguably the most significant event of World War II in Prague was the assassination of Reichsprotektor Reinhard Heydrich by Czech commandos. They fled to the Orthodox cathedral of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, where you can relive their final, spine-tingling hours with a fine exhibit that recounts the Allied planning for the mission, Heydrichʼs assassination and its horrific aftermath. Take the Metro B (yellow) line or tram 3, 6 or 22 to Karlovo náměstí, and walk one block west on Resslova to Na Zderaze street.    

Mondo Rondo
Prague is noted for its Cubist architecture, but even rarer is Rondo Cubism, a decorative Czech hybrid developed during the 1920s. You can see two outstanding examples of it in city center: the Legiobanka building (now called Palác Archa, Na Poříčí 24), designed by Josef Gočár, with  a stunning frieze by Otto Gutfreund depicting the Czech Foreign Legionʼs travails in Siberia; and Palác Adria (Národní 40, at Jungmannovo náměstí) by Pavel Janák and Josef Zasch, with its Italian Renaissance references and elaborate statuary.

Spiritual Retreat
Tucked away on a quiet lane just a short walk from the Maximilian Hotel is the finest example of Gothic restoration in the country, the Convent of St. Agnes. Built in the 13th century to accommodate the Order of Poor Clares, it now houses the National Galleryʼs medieval art collection. But you do not have to buy a ticket to explore the ground-floor complex of halls and chapels, which retain their serene, sacred atmosphere. Walk around St. Haštala Church to the side opposite the Maximilian, then straight down Anežská Street.

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